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Edited by Laura Petican, Mariam Esseghaier, Angela Nurse and Damayanthie Eluwawalage
ISBN: 978-1-84888-211-9
File type: eBook: pdf
Year of Publication: 2013

This book aims to advance knowledge in the field of fashion studies. It offers interdisciplinary perspectives on fashion related to collective and individual identity formation, fashion’s industries, theory, and media.

Description

This volume includes a selection of papers presented at the Fourth Inter-Discplinary.Net conference, Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues, held at Oxford University’s Mansfield College in September 2012. The chapters offer a wide range of disciplinary perspectives to the field of fashion studies. They include analyses of collective and individual identity, global and local expressions, nationalism, modes of self-presentation, sustainability and ethical fashion, developments in the luxury markets, and various theoretical and conceptual considerations. Its authors seek to challenge and contribute to commonly held understandings in fashion related to power dynamics in the fashion industry, representations of gender and class, fashion’s historiography, art and fashion, socio-political considerations, fashion as material culture, and fashion across media, from literature, to music and dance. The goal of this collection is to advance knowledge in the field of fashion studies and to expand upon current socio-cultural understandings of what constitutes the ‘fashion world.’

Table of Contents


Introduction

Laura Petican

Part 1: Social and Political Economies of Fashion

Fashioning the Transatlantic: Accessorising Men: From Neckties to Bathers
Sarah Heaton

The Paradoxical Nature of ‘Pauperist’ Style as Haute Couture
Llewellyn Negrin

Percy Savage and His Role in Paris Couture 1951-1965: Issues of the Creation and Organisation of Public Relations Systems
Sara Skillen

Dressing for the Revolution: Fashion and Politics in the 1871 Paris Commune
Leonard R. Koos

Part 2: Decorum, Presentation and Self-Consciousness

Exaggerated Modesty: The Evolution and Acceptance of Showing the Navel in Swimwear and Other Clothing
Patricia Hunt-Hurst and Amy Scarborough

Wedding Dresses in Italy during the Twentieth Century
Anna Balzarro

‘I Want to be Happy Looking at Myself’: Lolita Style and Its Embodied Practices between Resistance and Urban Fashion
Laura Porzio

Being Yourself: Dress as a Change Agent
Linda Shearer

The Ah Beng Subculture: The Influence of Consumption on Identity Formation among the Malaysian Chinese
Rachel Chan Suet Kay

Part 3: Theoretical and Conceptual Turns

Dress Theory: Exploring Critical Issues
Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Fashion, Possibility and Individual Agency: Theoretical Perspectives
Anna-Mari Almila

Dadaist Elements in the Works of Martin Margiela
Jure Purgaj and Simona Jevšnik

What Is Clothing Hiding, but Fashion Can Make Visible? The Connection between Deconstruction and Surrealism
Agata Zborowska

Trompe L’Oeil in Fashion
Cassandra Gero

Part 4: Fashion across Media

‘I Should Never Make Such a Fool of Myself as to Wear Them’: Fashioning Public/Private Identities in Jean Rhys’ Modernist Fiction
Sarah Downes

‘Miniskirts Make Money’: Post-War British Fashion Promotion in Films by the COI
Jo Stephenson

Fashion and Contemporary Club Culture: Reciprocal Reaction between Fashion, Dance, and Music
Dejan Agatonovic

Dress as a Performing Object
Ayşe Günay

Hillbilly Deluxe: ‘Country Couture’ and the Performance of Masculinity in Country Music
Janet Aspley

Part 5: Evolutions in Luxury

Heritage: The Difficult Innovation of the Fashion System
Cecilia Winterhalter

Cultural Borrowing and Cultural Theft: Why Burberry and Other Luxury Brands Should Take Note of Hermès and Its 2011 Sari Collections When Taking Inspiration from Non-Western Cultures
Donalea Scott

Working in the Fashion World: A ‘Kind of Magic’ Precarity
Giulia Mensitieri

Part 6: Global Identities and Local Expressions

Chinese Fashion Designers in Shanghai: Identifying a Fresh Perspective about Their Role in the World Order of Fashion
Tim Lindgren

They Need to Step Up Their Fashion Game: Constructing and Policing New Femininities on a Nigerian Lifestyle Website
Simidele Dosekun

The Position of Brazilian Fashion in a Borderless Place
Anamélia Fontana Valentim and Alessandra Brandão

Changing Avatars of the Choli in India: Blouse to Hi-Fashion Garment
Nilakshi Roy and Preeta Nilesh 

Part 7: Sustainable Fashion and the Global Community

The Poetics and Pragmatics of Doing Sustainable Fashion
Georgia McCorkill and Soumitri Varadarajan

Design with a Conscience
Deborah Emmett

Social and Environmental Concerns in the Fashion Industry: A Portrait of Québec’s Ethical Fashion Industry
Marie-Josée Hinse, Michèle Beaudoin, Caroline Boivinand Fabien Durif

Consumable Ideologies: Designing Sustainable Behaviours in Kuwait
Noura Al-Naggar

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About the Authors/Editors

Laura Petican, PhD, earned her doctorate in Art History from Jacobs University in Bremen, Germany. She also holds an MA in Art History from the University of Western Ontario, London, Canada, where she recently completed a SSHRC Postdoctoral Fellowship. Her research focuses on post-war and contemporary Italian art and the intersections of art and fashion.

Mariam Esseghaier is currently a PhD Candidate in Communication Studies at Concordia University in Montréal, Québec. She has a Master of Arts in English literature from Wilfrid Laurier University, Waterloo, Ontario, and a Master of Arts in Popular Culture from Brock University, St. Catharines, Ontario. Her research focuses on the fashion and consumption practices of Muslim women in Montreal.

Angela Nurse has completed her Master of Sociology degree and is currently working on a PhD in Sociology at Michigan State University. Her research explores how dress mediates and communicates racial identity as well as performance.

Damayanthie Eluwawalage, PhD, MPHA, earned her doctorate in Design/History from Edith Cowan University, Australia, and a BA in Design from Curtin University, Australia. She is an Assistant Professor at the State University of New York, and is a professional historian. Her research interests include design theory, costume, aviation, and space history (she holds a Private Pilot License).

Keywords

Art, culture, decorum, dress theory, fashion, fashion designers, fashion industry, identity, luxury, media, nationalism, politics, sociology, style, sustainability.

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